Maryland's Eastern Shore never seems to change: The towns stay small, the voters Republican, and the crabmeat always comes fresh from the Chesapeake. That's why the Inn at Easton, in a restored 1790 Federal mansion, is such a surprise. Although it has been open for nearly a year, some Easton locals still haven't figured it out- indeed, a cop whom I asked for directions swore it didn't exist. It turned out to be two blocks away. Andrew Evans, the chef and (with his wife, Liz) proprietor, rewards those who find him with dishes that reflect both the riches of the Chesapeake, a few miles away, and the vibrant flavors of Australia, where he lived for six years. His tropical fruit pavlova is enouth to warrant a trip: Indeed, since my visit, several dignitaries from D.C. have driven up for dinner, including the Australian ambassador. I wonder if he bumped into that policeman.